Lake Bunyonyi is a hidden paradise within the pearl of Africa, Uganda. When I heard people talk about this freshwater lake with 29 natural islands surrounded by green hills, I was intrigued since everyone who has been there insists that no description can even begin to explain its beauty.
The downside was that getting to Lake Bunyonyi meant a six hour drive from Kampala. But once we heard that it was close to the Rwandan border, being a 2 hour drive from Kigali, we thought here’s an opportunity to kill two African countries with one quick trip. So, we booked return flights to Kigali, which was easy to get to with direct flights on RwandAir, and planned a one week trip where we planned to spend three days in Kigali then drive into Uganda for three nights at Lake Bunyonyi.
Kigali
Kigali airport is small but modern. There are plenty of airport taxis just outside that have fixed fares to different areas of Kigali, no need to bargain! We had booked accommodation through AirBnb in the Kiyovu area and our host had told us to expect taxi fare of RWF10,000.
Soraya-the writer
First impressions of Kigali were exactly how people described it – clean, green and hilly. We did a lot of walking in Kigali and it’s quite easy to get around. The streets are numbered and clearly signed. Sidewalks everywhere make it a pedestrian friendly city. After every few blocks there are Rwanda Police officers patrolling on foot which made us feel very comfortable and safe to walk at any time. I had been advised by a friend to take night walks and we definitely took advantage of this.
It’s no secret that Rwanda has had a troubled past and the Genocide museum was a very saddening but important place to visit.The story of the genocide is told well through the videos, pictures and exhibits. The grounds also hold a memorial for victims of the genocide. Entrance is free but donations are invited.
Eating is my biggest hobby and I discovered some good eateries in Kigali. Of course a good view always goes down well and with most restaurants located on hills or rooftops, good views were all over. Heaven Hotel lays out a buffet brunch on Sundays which we enjoyed. They have a few hot dishes, fresh breads, cakes and omlette and pancake stations that make sweet or savory dishes to order. Khana Khazana had been recommended by many who had been to Kigali and the Indian food there was amazing for dinner.
Bakes and Good Views
If you’re looking for a pastry heaven, RZ Manna is the place to go for fresh bakes and good views. You can smell the pastries as you walk in and the space also has free wifi. There isn’t much of a language barrier as most speak English, French is widely spoken and surprisingly we got a few Swahili speakers too!
The two hour drive to the Uganda border is very scenic as a smooth road winds through hills.
Green Fields
We arranged our pick up from Kigali and transport to Bunyonyi through our hotel. Once you cross the border it’s a 20 minute drive to Kabale town and another 20 minutes up the hills in to Lake Bunyonyi to our hotel, Acacia Lodge, the only hotel on top of the hills. The views are just breathtaking and we spent most of our time sitting on the deck of our cabin feeling like demi-Gods up above the clouds watching the world below.
Views from Arcadia
Scenic
Arcadia
Activities around the lake are mainly water based and dependent on the weather so its best to head down to the lake in the morning before the rains come. The rains can be heavy but they pass quickly to reveal blue skies again. We did a boat tour and visited some of the main islands including Punishment Island where women who had children out of wedlock were sent as a punishment (this ended in the 40s!). Our guide told us that no women died, as they would be ‘rescued’ by men looking for wives without paying a bride price. Leprosy Island was where people with leprosy were sent to many years ago to live. There is currently a functioning boarding school and hospital on the island.
Beautiful Scenery
Most tourists come to the area as a stop over for gorilla trekking in the nearby forests. Crayfish are a local delicacy fresh from the lake and most of the lodges around the lake offer yummy crayfish dishes. Most of the restaurants around the lake are based within hotels or lodges around the lake.
Birdsnest Hotel
Our favorite was Birdsnest Hotel which is run by a Belgian chef. They have a wide menu and a fireplace outside great to chill in the evening by the lake.
After three wonderful nights in paradise, we took a taxi back to Kigali airport and ended this leg of our Africa adventure.
